I primarily keep my rats as beloved pets, with only a select few participating in my breeding plans. When breeding, I carefully choose healthy, good-natured rats from well-established lines to minimise potential genetic issues. However, I acknowledge the inherent unpredictability when outcrossing for at least the first couple of generations.

My main objective in breeding is to enhance and create Russian Blue varieties, while ensuring the rats are suitable as pets, with a focus on improving their temperament, health, and overall fitness.

I do not breed to meet the demand for kittens, resulting in a waiting period for availability.

From birth, I socialise all kittens through regular handling. I strongly oppose culling healthy animals and ensure that my rats are only placed in homes where they can enjoy a full and high-quality life. I like to maintain contact with the new owners throughout the rats' lives to monitor their progress, gather information about my breeding lines, and provide support and guidance.

If any rats cannot remain in their new home, I operate a ‘no questions asked’ policy and require that they either be returned to me or rehomed with my approval.

For mating, I allow the selected buck and doe to spend a single night together, when the doe is in heat, allowing them to maintain their position within their respective home groups immediately after mating is successful.

My does are mated with the aim for them to give birth between 6 and 10 months of age, with most having only one litter. I only consider a second litter under appropriate circumstances and if the mating is justified. My mothers give birth in a low-level barred cage equipped with ample nesting material. Once the kittens open their eyes, I introduce accessories for climbing and exploration. Around 3½ weeks, when the kittens become skilled climbers, I move the family to a larger cage. At 5½ weeks old, I separate the buck kittens from their mother and sisters to prevent pregnancies.

I gradually separate the mother from her daughters by increasing the time she spends with her usual group, ensuring the doe kittens are fully independent by the time they and their brothers are ready for new homes at around 8 weeks, after completing their kitten moult.

I feed my rats a mix based on the Shunamite diet recipe, which can be homemade or purchased ready-made from RatRations, Ratcessories or HeartRatHammocks.

The diet consists of a base of horse conditioning mix & rabbit food (55-60% by volume), supplemented with proteins (5-10%), processed cereals (20%), dried vegetables, herbs, and seeds (15%). I regularly provide fresh vegetables and occasional fruits. I give my kittens additional high-protein meals to support their growth.

I house my rats within my home, in a dedicated rat-room, in same-sex groups in spacious cages (SRS95) with a substrate of shredded cardboard (Green Mile) mixed with high-quality wood shavings (Pure Flake Extra).

I use recycled paper pellets in litter trays, and bedding consists of shredded soft paper & hay. I add some straw for extra warmth in the winter months. I equip the cages with a variety of furnishings and enrichment items and often change the layout of the accessories in the cage to challenge the rats to keep them stimulated and physically fit.